Friday, December 7, 2012

Vintage Post: My first puff (and crazy eyes...)


Today, I reached a major milestone!  I achieved my first puff! (Doing a little happy dance...) Before I explain how I achieved this look, I must first make a confession.  I haven't washed my hair in almost two weeks.  (Don't judge me. I did cleanse my scalp with some astringent when it started to itch though.) Yes... this is my curl revision from my rod set.  It started to revert on its own... so I helped it along with steam and water spritzes.  Don't worry. I plan on washing and deep conditioning this weekend.

Step 1: Spritz with water/conditioner mix.
Step 2: Add Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie for more moisture and curl definition.
Step 3: Seal with Hot Six Oil spray (or oil/oil mixture of your choice).
Step 4: Used Let's Jam to smooth edges (Yes, I know it has alcohol...and it's not Cetyl which is fatty and moisturizing either.   But I don't like ecostyler...sorry.)
Step 5: Used sock to pull hair into puff. (You can use a stocking or shoe string as an alternative.)
Step 6: Put on a headtie to smooth edges.  Drove to work and took it off upon arrival.

* On another note...

Don't I look like I have crazy eyes in this pic?  Nadette has a theory that people who have crazy eyes are usually... crazy!  I've tested this theory time and time again.  And she is very right.  I promise I'm not crazy though.  I have a family member in the hospital and I think I was trying too hard to smile. After a couple attempts, I finally gave up and settled on this picture. 

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Vintage Post: Wash & No-Go

BEFORE
 Why is my hair all over the place? Because I was picking at my scalp, of course. It is a bad habit I picked up from my relaxed days when chemical burns were the norm.  Don't judge me.

THE DILEMMA

Have you heard about the Cantu Shea Butter warning? The one that states that you you should avoid putting the product on your scalp.  Well if you do some further research, you will learn that this rule applies to all leave-in conditioners.  This is particularly important if you have a sensitive scalp like mine.  Thanks to my hard-headedness, I ravaged my scalp.  Imagine how sore and itchy your scalp feels after a chemical burn.  Yup, that was me.  It wasn't pretty.

Hair. Resilient. Scalp. Super-sensitive.  (I bet you thought my hair catastrophe would be fried hair.  Bwahaha.)

When I first BC'd, my go to (modified) wash and go routine was to put Cantu Shea Butter on a dried-up twist-out (approximately 3 days old). The next day did I wash it out? No.  Or, the next day? Of course, not.  So by the the third day, As  you can imagine, my hair itched horribly.  The itch-factor coupled with the strong smell forced me to switch to Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie.

With a new product, I continued the same habits.  (I didn't feel like re-twisting my hair mid-week and needed an easy solution. I'm stubborn. Don't judge me.)  At first, my scalp was ok.  Eventually, the itching ensued. But worst.  By the time I straightened my hair in late February, my scalp was ready for a break.

THE TREATMENT...

 I clarified my hair and applied jojoba oil and castor oil to the scalp, which provided some relief. But I still found myself picking at my scalp and my scalp flaking horribly.  This weekend, I finally decided to do a Bentonite Clay treatment.  Ultimate relief.  Ahhhh! My scalp no longer feels sore and raw. 

LESSON LEARNED

Will I stop using Shea Moisture? No.  It works great for wet twist-outs.  Will I stop putting almost half the jar on my head for a wash and go? Yes. I've learned my lesson.  My scalp doesn't like build-up. I get it.  I'll stop being lazy. I'll do my hair mid-week.  I also will not be one of those people who leaves 90% of conditioner in their hair.  I will stick to leave-ins since they are not as heavy and are designed to be left in the hair.


AFTER



My luscious curls are ready for their close-up.

Has anyone had a similar experience due to misuse of products?  Any suggestions for someone with a sensitive scalp?

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Vintage Post: How I Straighten My Hair

DISCLAIMER: Please note that you must be careful when you straighten your hair.  To avoid heat damage, pay attention to how YOUR hair reacts to heat. Always use a heat protectant.  Try lower heat first then work your way up to determine the optimum heat temperature.  Also make sure that you don't use a blow dryer that is more than 1875 watts.  Abuse of any hairstyle, whether it is heat styling, wigs, weaves, braids, wash and gos, or headbands can be damaging.  So pay attention to your hair. Adjust your routine when you notice signs of damage.

TIPS:
- I am a big advocate of tourmaline ionic heat styling tools.  The negative ions smooth the hair cuticle, dries your hair faster, locks in moisture, and reduces heat damage. I have been using tourmaline ionic blow dryers and flat irons for almost two years. I switched to a tourmaline ionic blow dryer after I fried off my hair with a faulty blow dryer. My hair grew back in 10 months. My hair dresser was surprised by my lack of split ends.
-Use a HEAT PROTECTANT!  Whether it is grapeseed oil, CHI silk infusion, or IC Straightening Serum (my product of choice), please protect your tresses.
-Don't run the flat iron over your hair 50-million times.  Once or twice should be suffice.

PRODUCTS USED:
Avalon Organics Peppermint Oil Shampoo
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Conditioner
Aphogee Protein Leave-in Conditioner
Giovanni Direct Leave-In Conditioner
African Royale Hot Six Oil
IC Straightening Serum
Isoplus Contitioning Gel (when I curled hair the next day)
Andis Professional Tourmaline Ionic Blow Dryer (only about $40)
Titanium Tools Flat Iron
Revlon Ceramic Curling Iron

STEPS:

-Wash, deep condition, and detangle hair.  Put in your leave-in conditioners and oils.



-Put a reasonable amount of heat protectant in your hand, rub together hands, and apply.  Blow-dry detangled hair.  I use a blow-dryer comb attachment.  Before I blow dry each section, I use my shower comb to detangle again.

I originally blow dried my hair to braid cornrowed extensions. Fail!  I need to put in kinky twists.  But check out my little twists. I'm going ot have the cutest twist-out when I grow some hair.


Flat iron hair in small sections.  For each section, only use heat protectant spanning about a centimeter. If it is not getting straight enough, divide your hair into slightly smaller sections.  (Rather than run the flat iron on your hair too many times.)



If I were going out, I would immediately curl my hair. Since I was going to bed, I wrapped my hair. The next morning I curled it.



To maintain my hairstyle:
-Avoid water-based hair products, otherwise it will revert.  I used oil and shea butter to seal in the moisture and maintain my hair style.
-Resist the urge to flat iron mid-week.  If your hair starts to revert, work with it.  Consider pin-curls, a braid out, or putting in rollers.
-Avoid really hot showers; they are not good for your skin anyway.  When you take a shower, consider using multiple hair wraps and shower cap. 



Anyone else have any advice?

Vintage Post: Your hair looks professional like that...

Please excuse the picture quality. I took this pic with my cell phone.

Let's rewind to yesterday.  I straightened my hair for my hubby's birthday.  I was very excited to see the amount of growth in just two-week's time.  (I'm doing something right.)  But of course, 15 minutes away from a much needed vacation, someone had to spoil my day.  (No, I'm not going anywhere.  Just not to work....ahhhh.)

A co-worker, who normally barely says two words to me, stated, "Your hair looks nice!"
Surprised. I replied, "Thank you".
My thank you barely had the time to make it out of  my lips, before the interjection, "It looks professional like that."
Pause.

As opposed to what? My natural texture?  Am I overreacting?  And who are you to tell me what is professional?  You are wearing a hawaiian shirt and wrinkled shorts.  [At least that is what I think this non-descript person was wearing.]  Who made you the authority on professionalism?

So, fifteen minutes away from my vacation, I simply walked into my office and started to pack up my stuff.  I was on the brink of a serious ABW (Angry Black Woman) moment.  I  normally get compliments in my office on my hair [whether it is curly or straight], my clothes [which are professional, even during the business casual summer], and my shoes [always fabulous, but still working within the confines of a professional setting].  So I wasn't thrown back by the compliment.  After attending a predominantly white university, I've been subject to blatant racism [cue swastikas and the "N" word written on all doors...on my first night of college] and ignorant comments [cue, terminology like "ghetto booty"].  So, by the age of 28, I'm not sensitive about race. I normally correct people and move on. 

After some thought, I came to the conclusion that I wasn't overracting. This person just game me an underhanded "compliment".  And by the time I got home I was fuming. Luckily, a birthday dinner with my hubby, mom, and sis calmed me down.  But I'm still a little peeved.  

Should I be so angry? Your thoughts?

Vintage Post: Hair Reversion

My hair after my co-wash and before bentonite clay. I co-washed, because bentonite clay and apple cider vinegar clarify the hair.In my third installment, check out the before and after.  (Make note of my different curl textures and shrinkage.)

It's no secret. I straighten my hair.  I'm aware of the dangers, but hair is an accessory to me. I take caution and I don't overdo it.  I've been checking out a lot of YouTube videos about straightening hair, heat damage, and I realized that there are quite a few things I'm doing right:

  • At night, I use coconut oil to do pin curls or wrap my hair. Coconut oil lays the cuticles down and results in a nice, smooth finish.  (Much better option than running the flat iron through your hair again. I only do that in emergency situations.)
  • I pre-poo with coconut oil -- either overnight or 20-30 minutes prior to shampooing hair.  Last week, I also put some castor oil on my scalp.  Castor oil promotes healthy hair growth, but it is a heavy oil so DON'T rub through your hair.
  • I deep condition my hair.  Based upon some videos I've watched, moisture is key to silky, bouncy hair...without the temptation to put too much heat on your hair.
  • I don't put heat on my hair that is over 350 degrees.  Otherwise, you may end up with heat damage or alter your curl pattern.  (When I accidentally ran the flat iron through a small section at 400 degrees, I defintely changed the curl pattern. I've been nursing.  I plan on growing it out and cutting it off. LESSON LEARNED.)
  • I revert my hair by running water on hair and rubbing my scalp in circles.  My curls revert in this step alone. If any curls look different,  I focus on those areas during the shampoo and condition process
  • I clarify my hair after a week of straight hair. I use a lot of cones in my hair, while it is straight.  I make sure I get them out of my hair.
  • I exercise caution.  Whether you use heat, color, or relaxer...exercise caution.
Here are some helpful videos I found:





And this video...

I personally don't follow any instructionals to the letter. I incorporate elements that work for me. 

Does anyone else have any tips, suggestions, or cautions?

Vintage Post: Bentonite Clay &Twist-out


If you can recall, I originally wanted to try a henna treatment.  But I recently learned that there are alternatives to henna, with similar results.  After much deliberation, I recognized that a messy, all-day henna treatment was probably not a sustainable hair treatment for an expectant mother.

Benefits of Bentonite Clay:
  • Removes dirt, debri, and buildup from hair; draws excess oils to the surface (also great for skin)
  • Defines/Enhances curl pattern
  • Imparts shine
  • Improves detangling
  • Nutrients nourish hair
    • Mineral Content:
      • Silica- 61.4%
      • Aluminum- 18.1%
      • Iron- 3.5%
      • Sodium- 2.3%
      • Magnesium- 1.7%
      • Calcium- 0.04%
      • Titanium- 0.02%
      • Potassium- 0.01%
      • Moisture- 7.8%
      • pH - 8.3 - 9.1   (I mixed it with Apple Cider Vineger, which should bring down the ph.  Hair products should have a ph of 5.5 -7. But I'm not kimmaytube. I don't test the ph of my products.  So don't take my word for it.)
Tips:
  • Don't use metal utensils (It draws impurities from metals; the warning is located on the container)
  • It should be gray
  • Can be purchased from health food stores like Whole Foods, Trader Joes, and Vitamin Shoppe. (I purchased mine at Vitamin Shoppe)
  • Be careful trying to open container in store to check the color....you may end up with powder all over your black coat like I did.
  • Don't let it harden on your hair!  Leave in for 20-30 minutes. If you forget about it and leave it in longer, have fun taking it out. Don't worry. I only left it in for 25 minutes.

This is my hair after reverting and co-washing my hair.

I guesstimated a mixture of bentonite clay and apple cider vinegar.  The result should be a yogurt consistency.  Some people use water, oils and/or conditioners in their mix. I decided to keep it simple.


Clay on my hair. How flattering...


Rinsed out and Conditioned.


Flat twists in the front, regular two-strand twists in the back.  Flat twisting gives me pregnancy carpal tunnel.  So no more flat twists until I pop this baby out.


Twist-out results the next day.

Favorite twist-out products:
1. Shea moisture
2. Coconut oil, shea butter, aloe vera gel
3. Bee Mine Curly Butter
*Always seal ends with shea butter

*Thus far, I am pleased with the results.  All of the stated benefits were achieved.  I'm sold :-) I plan on doing this treatment once a month. I will keep you updated on the long-term results.

Need a video tutorial?

Check out BlackOnyx.

Has anyone else tried bentonite clay? What did you think?  Does anyone else have any henna alternatives?

Vintage Post: Lessons Learned - 2.5 Weeks Natural

On the right, my hair when I'm too lazy to do it. I finally decided to do my hair after my husband asked if I could twist my hair or something...lol

All done! I used Bee Mine Hold Curly Butter, which I won on Moptop Maven's blog.

I put on a hat to go vote !

The next day after work...

It's hard to believe, but I've been all natural for almost three weeks!  In these past few weeks, I've learned a lot about not only my hair, but about myself as well: 
  • I've learned to not be so sensitive. So when my mom smiled and said I looked like a pickinanny (meaning, pickininny), I wasn't offended. I actually thought it was funny and I was happy that she didn't gawk at my hair all night. (My mom has a tendency to poke, prod, and stare.  Imagine my mom inspecting my face after a break out. Not fun. At all.)
  • A lot of my appearance is wrapped up in my hair.  I never realized how much I loved my long, thick hair... until it was gone.  I know I am not my hair, but I am. I am!  Patiently waiting for it to grow back. I will NEVER cut it again.
  • Overuse and abuse of oil will result in a breakout.  I can't remember the last time I had a breakout, but last week I tried a mixture of olive oil, coconut oil, and shea butter. Fail! Major fail!  Every time I touched my hair, I would have a handful of oil.  That same oil dripped onto my face and caused a major breakout on my forehead and temples. I immediately stopped using olive oil and attacked the breakout with Salicylic acid (Neutrogena astringent).  My face is clear once again.  Now, I stick to my hot six oil/spray, coconut oil, and shea butter. No more trips to the kitchen for me.
  • Wash and Gos are not for me. In my hair, wash and gos resulted in a shrunken, matted mess.  And that's ok. They are just not for me. Instead, I do a flat twist-out and for the next 2-3 days, I use Cantu Shea butter.  I get the same results as a wash and go and it's less time consuming.
  • My hair loves water-based products and conditioners.  The key to moisture in my hair is deep conditioning, the use of water-based hair creams, and great leave-in conditioners.  Then seal lightly with oil and shea butter when appropriate. 
  • The Denman brush is worth all the hype. At least to me.  I thoroughly detangle first with my shower comb, of course. Running the brush through my hair softens and smooths the texture. It results in great twist-outs.  And it doesn't pull out my hair either...
  • I learned to curb my PJIsm. Over the fast months, I would randomly buy products because I heard about it on a blog, or YouTube.  I've curbed that habit. Instead, I'm focusing on how to use those products and particular techniques.  I hate Cantu Shea Butter as a leave-in. It has been in my cabinet for months. But on YouTube, someone mentioned that it is a great alternative for wash and gos. So I tried it and it worked.  Try looking up how others use the products you already have.  Also, look up techniques.  Don't be so quick to run to the store. Take the time to learn more about your hair, develop a routine, and figure out what is missing.  The only products I am really interested in purchasing are Shea Moisture (as an alternative to Cantu Shea Butter since it flakes and I'm not fond of the smell), and Aloe Vera Gel (my Bee Mine product has Shea and Aloe Vera Gel. Love it!)
  • DO ME! No matter what someone suggests on a blog, forum or on YouTube, I have to DO ME! I have to take the time to learn my hair and what works for me. Some disapprove of cones, my hair has no problem with them.  Some don't believe in washing hair, I do.  Some disapprove of straightening natural hair, but I like the versatility.  It's my hair so I'm going to DO ME!
What lessons have you learned on your hair journey? (Whether it is a natural or healthy hair journey)
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